Kickback is the violent backward and/or upward motion of the chainsaw guide bar occurring when the chain near the nose or tip (see picture) of the guide bar contacts any object, such as another log or branch, or when the wood closes in and pinches the cutting chain in the cut.

Chain pitch is the distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. Pitch defines the size of the chain. OREGON® chain is made in several pitches - 1/4" is the smallest, 3/8" is the most popular. Other parts of the cutting elements are pitch-related. The drive sprocket must be the same pitch as the chain, and so must the nose sprocket in sprocket-nose bars.

Chain Gauge is the Drive Link's thickness where it fits into the guide-bar groove. The gauge of the chain and the gauge of the guide bar must match. OREGON® has several gauges - such as .050", .063", etc.

The length of your chain is determined by counting the number of drive links.   Common examples are 70 for "D" or "72" chain and 56 for "S" or "91" chain.

For a sprocket nose bar, turn your saw's tension-adjustment screw until the bottoms of the lowest tie straps and cutters come up and contact the bottom of the bar rails, then turn your tension-adjustment screw an additional 1/4 turn. Also, on sprocket nose bars, the snap test should be performed. Grasp the chain along the bottom of the bar, pull down, and let go. The chain should snap back to its original position, solidly contacting the bottom of the bar rail.

For a solid-nose bar, turn your saw's tension-adjustment screw until the bottoms of the lowest tie straps and cutters come up and contact the bottom of the bar rails. Chain tension on a solid-nose bar should be adjusted looser than on sprocket nose bars.

Regardless of your bar type, your chain should move freely around the bar. NEVER TENSION CUTTING CHAIN WHILE IT'S HOT!

OREGON® has just introduced the new Intenz® guide-bar chain tensioning system. See:
Intenz® Bar

Keep your saw's chain-oiling system filled with clean bar-and-chain oil. Never put used oil, or old motor oil, in your saw or on your chain. Be sure your chain, bar, and sprocket are always receiving oil from the saw during operation. Fill your oil reservoir each time you fill your gas tank.

Several things can make a chain cut crooked, or pull to one side. The following are the causes and the remedies:

Uneven top plates can cause a chain to cut crooked. It's important to keep all top plates equal length.

Dull cutters damaged by rocks can cause a chain to cut crooked. It's important to remove all damage from cutters prior to cutting. Cutting with a dull chain can accelerate wear to the bar and chain.

Different depth gauge settings from left to right. Keep all depth gauge settings equal from left to right.

Different top-plate angles from left to right. If you sharpen your chain at a 25° setting on your left hand, your right hand cutters should match.

A worn guide bar. A badly worn bar cannot be repaired. If your system is cutting crooked and you have narrowed it down to the bar, more than likely the rails, or the inside of the bar, are damaged beyond repair.

Keep in mind that a sharp chain will cut large-size chips. A chain that is dull or has abrasive damage will create sawdust. It's time to sharpen when you're having to push on the saw or the saw is no longer self-feeding.

Always inspect your chain prior to sharpening. Check for the following:

- Bent or burred drive links

- Broken cutters or tie-straps

- Loose rivets, broken rivet heads

Note: Do not file or alter the tops of kickback-reducing bumper tie straps or bumper-drive links, except on 33SL, 34SL and 35SL chains. Only on 33SL, 34SL, and 35SL will the bumper tie straps be filed down while the cutter depth gauges are filed.

Prior to setting your depth gauges it's important to have the correct depth gauge tool. Most OREGON® chains have a number stamped on each cutter located on the depth gauge indicating the correct depth gauge setting. If unsure of your OREGON® chains depth gauge setting, ask your OREGON® saw chain dealer. The following steps will help you correctly set your depth gauges:

If the depth gauge extends above the slot, file the depth gauge down level with the top of the tool using a flat file. Never file the depth gauge down enough to exceed the depth gauge setting specified.

Note: Do not attempt to file or alter tops of kickback-reducing bumper tie straps or bumper drive links, except on 33SL, 34SL, and 35SL chains. Only on 33SL, 34SL, and 35SL will the bumper tie straps be filed down while the cutter depth gauges are filed.

Please email technical services or mail your name, address and type of literature you are requesting to the Service Department at Oregon Cutting Systems. (See address for mailing information)

Yes. Taking these few simple steps prior to using it can extend the life of your new chain:

Follow all manufacturer recommendations. Check chain packaging or contact your local OREGON® dealer for angles regarding your chain type.

If your new OREGON® product should fail because of defects in materials or workmanship, package it carefully and send it prepaid to Blount, Inc. with: your name, address, phone number, and a brief explanation of the defect - and OREGON® will replace it, free. However, OREGON® products are not warranted against user abuse, improper maintenance, or improper repair. OREGON® will evaluate each warranty on an item-by-item basis.

Blount, Inc.
Oregon Cutting Systems Division
Attn: Service Department
4909 S.E. International Way (97222-4679)
P.O. Box 22127
Portland, Oregon 97269-2127
or click here to find our worldwide locations

It's important not to run a new chain on a badly worn drive sprocket. Replace drive sprocket systems after every two chains, or sooner.

Your bar's cutting length (or "called length") is different from its overall length. The cutting length is the distance from the front of the saw to the tip of the farthest cutter rounded to the nearest inch.